Russia is undergoing a great amount of change.  The switch from Communism to Capitalism has created a dynamic that the average American could completely grasp without visiting the country.  Thanks to our guide and business contact, Mikhail Myagkov, I was truly able to learn and experience some of the subtleties of the culture and gain an understanding of the drastic transformation that is occurring. 

What's it like?

In some ways the amount of freedom in Russia is even greater than in the United States.  However, my experience has led me to believe that this extra amount of freedom isn't necessarily better.  For instance, traffic laws are more guidelines rather than laws.  Drivers, for the most part, leave it up to their discretion as to what is safe or right.  Driving on the other side of the road during rush hour is not uncommon.  Speeding at double the limit, driving up on curbs, making 5 lanes out of a three lane road are perogatives rather violations with stiff penalties.  Even when caught, paying off policemen to avoid punishment or penalty is equally as common.  This sort of exchange earns the policemen a few buck of extra income and has the negative effect of promoting further aggressive driving practices since no real penalty occurs.  This sort of scenario can be pretty much applied across all facets of the city culture in Moscow (I think).  Business dealings are similar in that the government doesn't have a strong enough presence or the desire to track down and punish unethical business conduct.

The Policeman and the Professor Analogy

It was interesting talking to Mikhail about corruption and what it means in Russia.  He used the analogy of a professor grading a test to a policeman writing a ticket.  Mikhail described that the police may be corrupt but they are fair.  For instance, if the professor was grading a paper and it deserved an 'A', the professor would give it an 'A'.  If the professor felt the paper deserved a 'D' he would give it a 'D' but may be swayed with money to change the grade to an 'A'.  Mikhail tried to console me on the fact that the professor would never give a paper a 'D' grade if it deserved an 'A' even though he might convert a 'D' to an 'A' for a little money.  From my experience, this type of behavior seems to be common throughout all threads of the Russian culture.  So if you get pulled over in Russia, and you have all your papers in order, according to Mikhail, you don't have to worry.  However, if they find anything out of line, be ready to get out your wallet.

Until this type of corruption is turned around, I don't think anyone has incentive to abide to the law.  I think this will unfortunately slow the country's move toward a successful capitalistic economic model. 

Sorry, no loans in Russia.

Another noticeable difference between the States and Russia is the contrast between those that have and those that don't.  It Russia it seems that you are either very rich, or very poor and not much in between.  It's amazing to know that there is no such thing as car loans in Russia.  Everyone has to pay cash for their car.  What you see on the streets are either high-end BMW's, Mercedes, etc.. or low end cars like the Russian LAADA. Mikhail believes one of the stark differences why the United State is so successful is because the economy is propped up by the working class that has to work to pay for the mortgage on the house that they are trying to eventually own.  The fact that they have the opportunity to live in the home and pay mortgage payments drives them to work so they can keep their home.  In Russia, there is no such thing as a Mortgage.  It is harder for the common Russian to have the ambition or drive to earn or save money when the possibility of owning a house is tens of years down the road because they have to pay with cash, in full, up front.  Yow.  So, based on this, most people live in apartments and pay rent.

Is there any trace of the old regime?

A little.  There doesn't appear to be as much as I had expected.  The center of Moscow is beautiful.  It is much like any other big European city.  It is relatively clean and the buildings are kept up rather well.  From what I've learned, there is still an elite class of government officials that are well connected and cared for.  Moving throughout Russia whether you are a Russian citizen or a visitor, you will need your passport.  Authorization to move about different parts of Russia is needed even if you are from Russia.  According to Mikhail, attempting to get into Moscow is still tightly controlled.  Mikhail says it is more to keep the riff-raff or less desirable class of people out of the city.  We saw the KGB building.  It looks rather nice.  It sounds like they are still very active but take a lower profile role.  Mikhail credits the fact of low terrorism rates in Russia because of the thoroughness of the KGB.

Russians, although they now seem to love democracy and capitalism, and might not agree with their former communist government, do not forget their history.  Along the wall of the Kremlin is Lenin's mausoleum and monuments for the various leaders and famous people throughout the 1900's.  It's remarkable to stand in Red Square and see the contrast of the Kremlin on one side and a huge building for public shopping (like a mall) on the other. 

What are the people like?

Friendly.  Helpful.  Intrigued by Americans.  During our weeklong visit, I don't recall one bad incident with a Russian citizen.  I happened to be visiting Moscow to evaluate a company as a possible source for software subcontracting.  I was pretty impressed.  All of them seemed extremely bright, committed, and driven.

What is the state of the country?

Mixed.  Once you get outside the city, the buildings and roads run down and semi-deteriorated.  Lawns and grounds are unkempt and standard services are harder to find.  The country is having a difficult time finding the funds to keep the infrastructure from falling apart and has to be selective in its approach. Compared to what I've heard from previous visitors just three or four years ago, it seems to be getting better but very slowly. 

Would I visit again?

Boy, that's a good question.  I think so, with some caveats.  Definitely fly business class.  The flight is pretty long 9-10 hours and the extra room makes a huge difference.  The jet lag is pretty bad too, 8 hours.  My second day there was nasty but I was able to bounce back on the third day.  Once you get over that, the next hardest part is overcoming the language barrier.  It might sound like I'm spoiled, but I think I'd require having a guide/interpreter and driver.  This is not just for convenience.  Many things are only described in Russian.  Also, from my experience, many do not speak English, and if you want to get around safely and not get snookered a guide is the way to go.  Last is the hotel.  I stayed in a rather nice western style hotel which definitely helped.  Unfortunately, I still got sick even though I tried to be safe and stick, as much as possible, to bottled water.

I wish I was able to see more of the sites (museums, historic landmarks, etc...) before leaving.  This alone makes me want to return.